We spent 5 days cycling the 420km from Kunming to Dali. Just about still secluded valleys nestled under elevated highways and new high speed rail links. Most villages remained full of smallholders with separate fields, and some were surrounded by newer farms made up of long, tunnel-like white tents. Occasional pop-up towns encircled the national road, with truck-stops, garages, and restaurants made grey by the fumes of the passing lorries. A few faded guidelines for the one-child policy remained visible among China Mobile slogans (“Our signal is the best! Access 4G at home and in the field!”) and adverts for male sexual health (“For impotence issues, come to Guangda Hospital!”). But these were in turn outnumbered by innumerable examples of the new, wonderful, mass-line campaign, amidst verdant hills – “Protect the Environment! Preserve the Forest!”.