Category: Silk Road
Bishkek to Kashgar: Finally to China
After leaving Bishkek a migrating bird fell from a telegraph pole and started to spasm a metre from my feet. I can remember catching the tortured look in its eye, in the short moment before a small, ... Read More
Tashkent to Bishkek: Across the Steppe
The 10 days I planned to stay in Uzbekistan had turned into 30 by the time I left, 12 hours before my visa ended, inching 50kg of bike through crowded and curious queues. Briefly inspired by having f... Read More
Tashkent-Bukhara-Tashkent: The Silk Route Super Brevet!
The courtyard was full of lean, experienced cyclists fine-tuning shiny road bikes. Mine sat idly in the corner battered from 6 months of inattention and bad roads. On a slightly tipsy whim I had decid... Read More
Nukus-Tashkent: One Step Forward Two Steps Back
Cycling about and finding a spot to camp, or chancing on the hospitality of strangers, is a real joy. It doesn’t always work out. Pushing my bike along rutted tracks one night last week, evading... Read More
Baku-Aktau-Nukus: Cabin Fever
Uzbek embassy official: “No more visa.” “But the three of us are travelling together.. Can you not just possibly not just issue just one more…” Long pause. “No. You... Read More
Tbilisi-Baku: Azerbaijani Adventures
10 days from Tbilisi and memories of the way faded just a little in the heat and bureaucracy of Baku. First try at the Uzbek embassy failed. Closed for locals to sign a book of condolences for Preside... Read More
Tbilisi-Kazbegi: 2 Days Up and 2 Days Down
My visa to enter Uzbekistan starts on 6 September, so for now I am staying in Georgia, before setting off to Azerbaijan, across the Caspian Sea, and through a small corner of Kazakhstan to get there. ... Read More
Batumi-Tbilisi: Cha Cha in the Mountains
Batumi was an abrupt change from Turkey. Quite seedy and much more alcohol. After being plied with the local 70% grape liquor at 10am when I was trying to leave the hostel, I was ready for a refreshin... Read More